TV makes Clicking Noise
If your Samsung TV (52″ LCD) started clicking several times before finally switching on after 30 seconds, this relay clicking gradually got worse each time I turned the set on. ( It turns out that this is quite a common problem with Samsung TV’s of all sizes). and sounds like a relay clicking on and off.
Here are the Tips :
Usually the problem is in the Power Supply.
1. unscrewed the back cover of the TV (20 screws) .
2. Removed the metal cover of the power supply (4 screws)
3. Carefully looked over the power supply looking for anything out of the ordinary, low and behold you could see a few capacitors (the cylindrical shaped components) that had raised tops. These raised tops are caused when the capacitor breaks down and forms hydrogen gas, if left, eventually the capacitors will blow, and hopefully the top will split open and release the gas pressure, if not, they may just explode.
checked out the replacement cost of a new power supply board, buy one in Samsung customer service near your place,
If you decided to replace all the capacitors in the power supply, we guessed if some were bad. Replacing all the capacitors wouldn’t cost much more .
Each Capacitor has 3 important values
- The capacitance measured in μF (micro farads) eg (1000μF)
- Voltage (eg 50V)
- Temperature (eg 105°C)
This particular Power Supply Unit (PSU) has 3 different types.
- 1000μF 105°C at 10V
- 1000μF 105°C at 25V
- 47uF 105°C at 50V
It cost about $ 15 including postage for a 5 pack of each of the capacitors. I took a few photos of the circuit board so I wouldn’t forget what I was doing and set to work.
re-opened the TV, and completely removed the Power Supply Circuit Board, you need to remove several connectors, again, took some photos just in case you couldn’t work out where they all went when putting it back together. made sure the Power Supply didnt have any residual power stored in the capacitors by unplugging the TV (whilst it was turned on) from the plug. This is very important as messing with a power supply even 30 minutes after it has been turned off can still give you a nasty shock.
Then drew a simple diagram marking the polarity of each capacitor. To remove each capacitor takes a little time, you need to heat each pin using a soldering iron and whilst it is still molten pull or wiggle each leg out in turn. you found it easiest when you used the other leg as a pivot and rotate the capacitor around the fixed leg.
Anyway once removed, used the de-solder pump to clean up any solder that was clogging up the hole and then I inserted a new capacitor (checking the values again) and making sure the polarity was same as the one you had just removed. turning the board over, bent the pins a little, soldered the joints, and snipped off any left over wire.
put the board back in and hey-presto it all worked beautifully. Job took about 2 hours in total and excluding tools.
If you snap off the solder connector on the PCB when doing this replacement, it is worth noting that you can re-attach your component in another place as long as it is electrically equal. The Red Line in the diagram below shows where an existing component was, this component could then be re-soldered into any of the positions marked in green. But in the case of a capacitor which has + positive and – negative legs, you must make sure that the leg is re-attached to the same track, I have marked with a + plus sign which track it must be re-attached too.
After replacing the capacitors a few people are still having problems, it appears that this can be fixed by resetting the EPROM chip (apparently – a simple matter of shorting two of the pins).
Other option, just purchase the new Power supply board.
Tools you may need :
Find Samsung TV Service Manual Diagram for all model here :